Stitched buttonhole



July'27,19z6. 1,594,141

E. B. ALLEN STIT'GHED BUTTONHOLE Original Filled Jan. 9, 1924 INVENTOR I j, wlTN sesr i l. BY

/M i ATTORNEY Cal usual practice of laying the eye stitches. Fig.V 3 is aV diagrammatic View or a round eye buttonhole produced in accordance With the present invention and F l is a Qtace vien7 `oft the corded face or' the lnittonhole illustrated in 3. I

'Referring to Fig. l, which illustrates diagrammatically the uppei` or needleethread side of the usual pear-shaped eyeend of hutton'hcle, it will' he eeen that the idot-.e-.ni-`1 dash lines which represent the plane *of .1ibration of the needle stand normal to the center line of V.the huttonhole the sewing proceeds :in the direction of .the arrows around the `first and last ouarters oitheei e. rlhis is in accordance afi-n the cnstomary practice. lit 'will he seen that ith the er;- tent of Vibration of 'the needle inai-nta'inec.

constant, the Width off -the overseam aroundv the irst andiast Aquarters oiI the eye is not noticcablyor ohjectionably narrowed aeconr pared tothe Width ofthe overseam along the stem orp'around the second and third quarters .of :the eye.

Vlien the length olf the eye7 howerer., is reduced and mad-e more nearly circular and less pear-shaped, as shown in Fig. 2, vthe Width `of the oyerseain `arounl the iirst and last vcpiarters.otlthe eye is noticeably reduced and contrasts untavorahly with the over seamed portions along Lthe stem and around Vthe second and third.cniarters oli the eye,^giv ing 'the-eye as a Whole a distorted appearance.

In v'accordance with the lpresent `improvement in Aits vpreferred embodiment, Fig. 3, the plane of vibration of the needle'stfrnds normal 5to the center line Aof the button'hole 'from :the beginning Ypoint s 'along` the major portion of ,the iirs't side oi thehuttonhole and "un-til rthe sewing reaches the Ipoint 'a close to the eye. From a to 5 the stitch forming mechanism is gradually reversely turned through an angle :to say :24 so that when .the eye is `reached'the 'plane oi Vibration oi" the needle wiil stand more nearly normal ytov the edge of the eye at the rst quarter of the eye'oic the hutton'ho'le, instead of normal -to the ycenter line of the huttenrhole, as heretofore.

Y The `angular position of the stitch-formingmechanism is retained in sewing from b to CZ and then the stitchforming mechanism isi-'otated in the normal direction, in sewingl aroundthe eye 'from d toe, 'but through an angle of 180OV plus double the angle 240 ot initial reverse rotationpor 228 in all. F rom e to f the angular position of the stitch-formingmechanism is retained and Afrom to g' the stitchforming Vmechanism is again reyersely lrotated through an angle of :9A-O to bring the plane ot vibration of Athe needle again norf mal to the centerline oitthe buttonhole 'for sewing .along the remaining and major `por-V By''providing` a buttonhole sewing machine with means for rotating the stitch forming mechanism -in excess oa"- 180" in the Ymanner described, the eye oi the buttenhele is given :a :uniformly oveiseamed pearance and 4is or v.the ydesired circular shape The depth stitches from a to b and f -to g and particularly at the points b and f are crowded together, Figs. 3 and 41, and form hrm anchorage around which Itho cord .it is sharply *cent to accentuate the desired circular appearance er theeye. 1t will he understood that the angular amount .of reieerse rotation et lthe stitch '.orming mechanism, when fused, is .not critical and'that'the preferred amount is specified herein finY an illustrative and l'nota limiting sense.V

The prei-'erred huttcn'hole may ce characterized `as including anoverseam einhracing the cord hon one face-ofthe Liia'hric.and havin IseW-in-o the stem vstitches immediately -ad- Y jacent the eye. Fre-1n l?) ito 75l there is "ne rot-ation otgtlhefsti "i-iorming ineehanism and the difference oi "the-'sums the winner and -outerrangles is again rZero. 4FrenieZ-to e the sum .of the inner angl-es d A'minus the sum et theou'terangl-es Z2 is .a positive angle 0a 228,fand so on Ito the point 25, as will he readily understood. 'lllhe'stem enel or" the huttonhole may, of `cours-e, "he -i'inishedoii Aor barred in any desired manner. y Having t'ghus .set n forth Athe nature oil the invention, 'what I claim herein--is- A stitched 'hutt-onhol-e comprising ya fabric haring 1a button-h-ole-slit enlarged at one lend to 'form a vshort 5round vv'eye,a1co\rd extending around said sl-.it on fone fa-ce of the sahriC. and 'a louttonholeoverseam embracing -said cord and ialoricand including a needlethread ydisposed in zigzag arrange-ment on the other itace or the iahric,y the sum of the inner angles nii-nus 'the Isum of the "outer angles defined hy said` zigzag needleethread excess of i180O and the sum or the inner angles Vminus the sum olif @the outer `4`angles along @the .stem portions being nega-tive angles substantially equal to one-lial'f of said excess.

IIn testimony -whereof, I have .signed my naine to :this specification.

EDWARD nencini. Y 

